
Kehena Beach
Black sand, wild coast, spinner dolphins, no lifeguard






About
Kehena Beach is a short, raw strip of black volcanic sand on the Puna coast of Hawaiʻi Island, where deep blue ocean meets ancient lava. The beach sits at the base of a cliff, reachable only by a steep rope-assisted trail — which means the place stays genuinely quiet. Spinner dolphins frequent the bay, and the black lava shelf that frames the shore gives the whole scene an elemental, almost prehistoric feel. By long-standing local custom it's clothing-optional, and its counterculture roots run deep in the surrounding Puna community. It's wild in every sense of the word.
How to get there
From Highway 137, look for the informal roadside pullout and small parking lot — it's free, but spaces are limited. Car break-ins have been reported here, so leave nothing visible inside. From the pullout, a steep, rocky trail with a ladder drops down to the beach in about 10 minutes — wet conditions make this descent extremely slippery and genuinely hazardous. The beach is completely inaccessible to anyone unable to manage the rope-assisted cliff trail.
Who it's for
For couples
Kehena suits couples who want raw, unscripted scenery and don't need amenities — the quiet black sand cove, the dolphin sightings, and the counterculture atmosphere create a genuinely unusual day out on the Big Island.
For families
Kehena is not suitable for families with young children. The steep rope-assisted cliff trail with a ladder is hazardous for small kids, the water is dangerous with no lifeguard, and the clothing-optional custom adds a layer of complexity. Choose a different beach on the Big Island for a family outing.
Our take
Feet in the sand, eyes on the screen
Be honest with yourself before you go: Kehena is not a beach for swimming, paddling, or casual dipping — the shore break is dangerous and there is no lifeguard, full stop. The trail down is a real physical commitment, and in wet weather it becomes a serious hazard. What Kehena does offer is something genuinely rare: a black volcanic sand cove on a wild stretch of the Puna coast, spinner dolphins in the bay, a clothing-optional tradition built by a counterculture community over decades, and almost no one else around. Come to watch, to sit on the lava shelf, to feel the scale of the place. Skip it in winter. If you can handle the trail and you respect the rules — federal law on dolphins, local custom on nudity, and common sense on the water — it's one of the most singular spots on the Big Island.
What to do
The Kalapana Lava Viewing Area, about 10km away, is one of the most sobering landscapes on the island — hardened lava flow from the 1990 eruption that erased the Kalapana community, with lava tree molds still visible. Mackenzie State Recreation Area, 8.4km up the coast, offers an ironwood forest and coastal views with picnic facilities if you want a calmer stop. Closer in, a lava arch sits just 3km from the beach, and Hawaii Volcanoes National Park — a UNESCO World Heritage site with active volcanic landscapes — is worth the 47km drive for any serious visitor to the Big Island.
The black volcanic sand framed by the lava shelf and open blue ocean makes for a striking wide shot — best captured from the base of the trail before you descend fully onto the beach.
The rope-assisted trail itself, looking down toward the dark sand cove, is a compelling composition that captures the access challenge and the drama of the location. When dolphins are in the bay, shoot from elevation on the lava shelf for scale and context.
Where to eat
The nearest cluster of restaurants is around 11–12km away in the Pāhoa area. Kaleo's Bar & Grill, Pele's Kitchen, and Ning's Thai Cuisine are all roughly 11.2km from the beach, while Under the Bodhi Tree and Thep Thai are a kilometre or so further. Pack food and water for the beach itself — there's nothing on-site.
Where to stay
Lava Tree Tropic Inn, about 10.7km from the beach, is the closest lodging option listed for this stretch of the Puna coast. It's worth booking ahead — accommodation in this part of the Big Island is limited.
Photography
The contrast of jet-black volcanic sand against deep blue ocean is most dramatic in the low-angle light of early morning, when the lava shelf textures are sharply defined and the bay is at its quietest. If spinner dolphins are present, shoot from the cliff trail or the upper lava shelf — you'll get a wider perspective of the bay and avoid disturbing the animals.
Good to know
Do not enter the water. There is no lifeguard, and the shore break is unpredictable and dangerous — conditions can overwhelm even strong swimmers without warning. The lava shelf and surrounding rocks are slippery; stay back from the water's edge when waves are running. Spinner dolphins visit the bay, but federal law (the Marine Mammal Protection Act) prohibits approaching or swimming with them — observe from the shore only. Nudity is de facto tolerated here by long-standing local custom, but it carries no official designation — read the room and respect the community that built this tradition. Avoid November through February: winter swells make the shore break especially dangerous and the trail becomes treacherously slippery in rain.
Map
Nearby places
Kaleo's Bar & Grill
Pele's Kitchen
Ning's Thai Cuisine
Under the Bodhi Tree
Thep Thai
Lava Tree Tropic Inn
Kalapana Lava Viewing Area
Mackenzie State Recreation Area
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
Things to see around Puna
Kalapana Lava Viewing Area
Site of the 1990 lava flow that destroyed the Kalapana community; lava tree molds and hardened flow visible.
Mackenzie State Recreation Area
Ironwood forest park on the Puna coast with picnic facilities and coastal views.
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
UNESCO World Heritage site with active volcanic landscapes.
Frequently asked
The information on this page is provided for guidance only and may evolve. Access conditions, safety and infrastructure can change without notice. Always check official sources before traveling.
Other beaches in the region
Other wild beaches in Hawaii
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Photo credits
Sources and licenses for the photos shown above.
- Photo 1 — TalAtlas · source · CC BY-SA 2.0
- Photo 2 — This file was created by Thomas Tunsch · source · CC BY-SA 4.0
- Photo 3 — Seth Tisue · source · CC BY-SA 2.0
- Photo 4 — dane brian · source · CC BY-SA 2.0
- Photo 5 — dane brian · source · CC BY-SA 2.0
- Photo 6 — Thomas Tunsch · source · CC BY-SA 3.0






