
Varandinha Beach
Wild, turtle-guarded shore at the edge of Boa Vista



About
Praia de Varandinha sits on the remote southern coast of Boa Vista, Cape Verde, where roughly 400 metres of golden sand meets crystal-clear Atlantic water framed by black volcanic rock. A desert plateau rises behind the beach, giving the whole scene a raw, end-of-the-world quality that no resort beach can replicate. Loggerhead turtles have claimed this shore as a nesting site, and BIOS.CV conservation teams monitor it closely — you're a guest in their territory. The only sounds are wind, waves, and the occasional creak of a 4WD picking its way down the piste.
How to get there
Varandinha is reachable only by a rough 4WD track from Sal Rei — plan on roughly 75 minutes each way. Standard cars will not make it; the piste will strand them. There is no formal car park: vehicles stop on the piste itself, well clear of the sand. No entry fee is charged, but the journey demands a properly equipped 4WD and a driver who knows the track.
Who it's for
For couples
Varandinha's complete solitude and wild scenery make it one of the few places in Cape Verde where you'll genuinely have a beach to yourselves — no soundtrack but the Atlantic. The 4WD adventure to get there adds an element of shared effort that makes arrival feel earned.
For families
The difficult 4WD-only access, absence of any facilities, and moderate swimming conditions make Varandinha a poor fit for families with young children. Older kids with a genuine interest in wildlife and volcanic landscapes may find the turtle nesting context fascinating, but come fully self-sufficient.
Our take
Feet in the sand, eyes on the screen
Varandinha is not a beach you stumble onto. It takes a proper 4WD, 75 minutes of rough piste, and a willingness to arrive somewhere with zero infrastructure — no lifeguard, no café, no signal. What you get in return is a stretch of golden sand backed by volcanic rock and desert plateau that looks like it belongs to another century. The loggerhead turtles that nest here between June and October are the real residents; visitors are temporary. Respect the exclusion zones and the no-lighting rule at night — these aren't suggestions. Avoid the November-to-February window when trade winds make the whole experience grim. Come between March and May, carry water and a satellite communicator, and you'll have one of Cape Verde's most extraordinary shores entirely to yourself. True digital-detox territory — cell signal fades fast and there's nowhere to plug anything in.
What to do
The Varandinha caves, rated a perfect 5/5 and just 0.5 km from the beach, are the obvious first detour — volcanic geology at close quarters. A short distance further, the ruins of Povoação Velha offer a haunting glimpse of Boa Vista's colonial past. Further afield, the Curral Velho ruins on the south coast and the vast wild dunes of Praia de Santa Mónica — 20 km of dune-backed beach about 12 km away — reward anyone willing to keep the 4WD rolling. If turtle conservation is your reason for coming, the BIOS.CV Turtle Conservation Centre, about 38 km away, gives essential context to what you're witnessing on the sand.
The black volcanic rock formations at the beach's edges frame the golden sand and crystal-clear water in a way that looks almost artificial — shoot from the rocks looking south for the cleanest composition.
The desert plateau backdrop gives a rare shot of African dune landscape meeting open ocean, best captured in the warm flat light of early morning. During nesting season, BIOS.CV monitoring activity near the dunes adds a documentary layer that no resort beach can offer — keep your distance and use a long lens.
Where to eat
The nearest serious option is Ka Fabiana 'Boxe Rotcha', a highly rated local spot about 4.9 km away — worth the short drive back up the piste. Origens Santa Monica, around 10 km out, has built a strong reputation and is a good choice for a longer lunch after the beach. Bring everything you need for the day itself: there is nothing to eat or drink at Varandinha.
Where to stay
Nos Kasa Povoaçao Velha, about 5.3 km from the beach, is the closest base — small and simple, so check availability early. For more comfort, the Villa Nº25b Alfredo Marchetti suites on Praia di Chaves sit around 7.8 km away and offer a beach-adjacent setting with apartment-style space. Sea view options in Boa Vista are also available at a similar distance if you want to wake up with the Atlantic in front of you.
Photography
Shoot at sunrise when the low light turns the golden sand amber and the black volcanic rock frames the empty shore in sharp contrast — no other visitors to work around. The elevated desert plateau behind the beach gives a dramatic wide-angle backdrop; position yourself at the rock formations to the north to capture both the crystal-clear water and the volcanic geology in a single frame.
Good to know
Never drive or walk a vehicle onto the sand — it's prohibited, and the beach is an active loggerhead turtle nesting site from June through October. During nesting season, respect all exclusion zones, keep artificial lighting off at night, and leave fires unlit at all times. There are zero rescue services here: carry plenty of water and a satellite communicator before you set off. Dogs are prohibited during nesting season (June–October), and winter months from November through February bring strong trade winds and rough seas that make both the track and the water genuinely unpleasant — plan your visit between March and May for the sweet spot.
Map
Nearby places
Ka Fabiana "Boxe Rotcha"
Origens Santa Monica
Praia Blu
La tortuga
Perola D'Chaves
Nos Kasa Povoaçao Velha
Villa Nº25b Alfredo Marchetti suites on the beach Praia di Chaves - One-Bedroom Apartment
Villa Nº25b Alfredo Marchetti suites on the beach Praia di Chaves - One-Bedroom Apartment
Sea view, Boa Vista, Cabo Verde
Útulný apartmán na Praia de Chaves, Boa Vista
Curral Velho ruins
Praia de Santa Mónica
BIOS.CV Turtle Conservation Centre
Things to see around Boa Vista
Curral Velho ruins
Abandoned colonial-era settlement on the south coast of Boa Vista
Praia de Santa Mónica
20 km wild dune-backed beach on the southwest coast
BIOS.CV Turtle Conservation Centre
NGO monitoring loggerhead turtle nesting on Boa Vista beaches
Frequently asked
The information on this page is provided for guidance only and may evolve. Access conditions, safety and infrastructure can change without notice. Always check official sources before traveling.
Nearest beaches
Other wild beaches in Cape Verde
Reviews of this beach
- No reviews yet, what a shame — leave yours and share your experience.
Photo credits
Sources and licenses for the photos shown above.
- Photo 1 — Kurt-Georg · source · CC BY-ND 2.0
- Photo 2 — Miguel Discart & Kiri Karma · source · CC BY-SA 2.0
- Photo 3 — Miguel Discart & Kiri Karma · source · CC BY-SA 2.0







