Varandinha Beach, Boa Vista, Cape Verde, Cape Verde

Varandinha Beach

Wild, turtle-guarded shore at the edge of Boa Vista

Loggerhead turtle nesting siteBlack volcanic rock framingDesert plateau backdropBIOS.CV conservation monitoringBoat or 4WD only access
WildMixed

About

Praia de Varandinha sits on the remote southern coast of Boa Vista, Cape Verde, where roughly 400 metres of golden sand meets crystal-clear Atlantic water framed by black volcanic rock. A desert plateau rises behind the beach, giving the whole scene a raw, end-of-the-world quality that no resort beach can replicate. Loggerhead turtles have claimed this shore as a nesting site, and BIOS.CV conservation teams monitor it closely — you're a guest in their territory. The only sounds are wind, waves, and the occasional creak of a 4WD picking its way down the piste.

How to get there

Varandinha is reachable only by a rough 4WD track from Sal Rei — plan on roughly 75 minutes each way. Standard cars will not make it; the piste will strand them. There is no formal car park: vehicles stop on the piste itself, well clear of the sand. No entry fee is charged, but the journey demands a properly equipped 4WD and a driver who knows the track.

Who it's for

For couples

Varandinha's complete solitude and wild scenery make it one of the few places in Cape Verde where you'll genuinely have a beach to yourselves — no soundtrack but the Atlantic. The 4WD adventure to get there adds an element of shared effort that makes arrival feel earned.

For families

The difficult 4WD-only access, absence of any facilities, and moderate swimming conditions make Varandinha a poor fit for families with young children. Older kids with a genuine interest in wildlife and volcanic landscapes may find the turtle nesting context fascinating, but come fully self-sufficient.

Our take

Feet in the sand, eyes on the screen

Varandinha is not a beach you stumble onto. It takes a proper 4WD, 75 minutes of rough piste, and a willingness to arrive somewhere with zero infrastructure — no lifeguard, no café, no signal. What you get in return is a stretch of golden sand backed by volcanic rock and desert plateau that looks like it belongs to another century. The loggerhead turtles that nest here between June and October are the real residents; visitors are temporary. Respect the exclusion zones and the no-lighting rule at night — these aren't suggestions. Avoid the November-to-February window when trade winds make the whole experience grim. Come between March and May, carry water and a satellite communicator, and you'll have one of Cape Verde's most extraordinary shores entirely to yourself. True digital-detox territory — cell signal fades fast and there's nowhere to plug anything in.— The wmb team

What to do

The Varandinha caves, rated a perfect 5/5 and just 0.5 km from the beach, are the obvious first detour — volcanic geology at close quarters. A short distance further, the ruins of Povoação Velha offer a haunting glimpse of Boa Vista's colonial past. Further afield, the Curral Velho ruins on the south coast and the vast wild dunes of Praia de Santa Mónica — 20 km of dune-backed beach about 12 km away — reward anyone willing to keep the 4WD rolling. If turtle conservation is your reason for coming, the BIOS.CV Turtle Conservation Centre, about 38 km away, gives essential context to what you're witnessing on the sand.

Instagram spots

The black volcanic rock formations at the beach's edges frame the golden sand and crystal-clear water in a way that looks almost artificial — shoot from the rocks looking south for the cleanest composition.

The desert plateau backdrop gives a rare shot of African dune landscape meeting open ocean, best captured in the warm flat light of early morning. During nesting season, BIOS.CV monitoring activity near the dunes adds a documentary layer that no resort beach can offer — keep your distance and use a long lens.

Where to eat

The nearest serious option is Ka Fabiana 'Boxe Rotcha', a highly rated local spot about 4.9 km away — worth the short drive back up the piste. Origens Santa Monica, around 10 km out, has built a strong reputation and is a good choice for a longer lunch after the beach. Bring everything you need for the day itself: there is nothing to eat or drink at Varandinha.

Where to stay

Nos Kasa Povoaçao Velha, about 5.3 km from the beach, is the closest base — small and simple, so check availability early. For more comfort, the Villa Nº25b Alfredo Marchetti suites on Praia di Chaves sit around 7.8 km away and offer a beach-adjacent setting with apartment-style space. Sea view options in Boa Vista are also available at a similar distance if you want to wake up with the Atlantic in front of you.

Photography

Shoot at sunrise when the low light turns the golden sand amber and the black volcanic rock frames the empty shore in sharp contrast — no other visitors to work around. The elevated desert plateau behind the beach gives a dramatic wide-angle backdrop; position yourself at the rock formations to the north to capture both the crystal-clear water and the volcanic geology in a single frame.

Good to know

Never drive or walk a vehicle onto the sand — it's prohibited, and the beach is an active loggerhead turtle nesting site from June through October. During nesting season, respect all exclusion zones, keep artificial lighting off at night, and leave fires unlit at all times. There are zero rescue services here: carry plenty of water and a satellite communicator before you set off. Dogs are prohibited during nesting season (June–October), and winter months from November through February bring strong trade winds and rough seas that make both the track and the water genuinely unpleasant — plan your visit between March and May for the sweet spot.

Map

Nearby places

Ka Fabiana "Boxe Rotcha"

4.7
4.9 km

Origens Santa Monica

4.8
10.0 km

Praia Blu

4.3
10.6 km

La tortuga

4.4
10.8 km

Perola D'Chaves

4.6
11.7 km

Things to see around Boa Vista

Ruins

Curral Velho ruins

5.0 km

Abandoned colonial-era settlement on the south coast of Boa Vista

Nature

Praia de Santa Mónica

12 km

20 km wild dune-backed beach on the southwest coast

Nature

BIOS.CV Turtle Conservation Centre

38 km

NGO monitoring loggerhead turtle nesting on Boa Vista beaches

Frequently asked

Swimming is rated moderate at Varandinha. There are no rescue services on site whatsoever — no lifeguard, no emergency post. Carry water and a satellite communicator. If conditions look rough, stay out; there is no one to call for help.
No. The only road access is a rough 4WD track from Sal Rei, about 75 minutes each way. A standard car will be stranded on the piste. You need a properly equipped 4WD. There is no formal car park; vehicles stop on the piste, not on the sand.
March through May is the sweet spot — dry season conditions without the strong trade winds that make November through February difficult. The wet season (May–October) overlaps with turtle nesting, which adds wildlife interest but brings strict rules around lighting, exclusion zones, and no dogs.
Dogs are prohibited during the loggerhead turtle nesting season, which runs June through October. Outside that window the rules are less explicit, but the difficult access and zero facilities make it a tough trip for any animal.
None at all. Bring everything you need for the day. The closest rated restaurant is Ka Fabiana 'Boxe Rotcha', about 4.9 km away, and Origens Santa Monica is around 10 km out — both are good options before or after the beach.
From June through October, loggerhead turtles nest here under BIOS.CV monitoring. You must respect all exclusion zones, use no artificial lighting at night, keep fires unlit at all times, and keep vehicles off the sand entirely. These rules apply year-round for fires and vehicles.
No. The beach is inaccessible by wheelchair. The 4WD-only track, rough terrain, and complete absence of facilities make it unsuitable for anyone with limited mobility.

The information on this page is provided for guidance only and may evolve. Access conditions, safety and infrastructure can change without notice. Always check official sources before traveling.

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