Assateague Island – Backcountry Campsite Beach (Pope Bay)United States Beach Guide
Paddle in, pitch up, own a wild Maryland shore
About
Pope Bay on Assateague Island is a backcountry campsite beach stretching roughly 664 metres along a remote stretch of the Maryland coast, reachable only by foot or paddle. The sand runs golden underfoot, while the water carries a distinctive brown tint — tannin-rich and tidal, not the clear blue of postcard shores. No facilities, no road, no noise except wind and shorebirds. The vibe here is genuinely wild: this is a barrier island in its rawest form, where the horizon belongs entirely to you. A National Park Service permit is required to be here, which keeps visitor numbers low and the solitude intact.
How to get there
There is no road access and no parking at Pope Bay itself. You reach the beach either by hiking from the Maryland District Ranger Station and designated beach access points, or by canoe or kayak via bay access — both routes require a valid NPS backcountry permit. The permit costs US$10 per person for ages 16 and up, covering a 7-day backcountry stay. Secure your permit before you set out; rangers do check.
Who it's for
For couples
Pope Bay is one of the few places on the Mid-Atlantic coast where two people can genuinely have a 664-metre beach to themselves — paddle in together, camp under dark skies, and not see another soul for days.
For families
Older children and teenagers who are confident paddlers and hikers will find the permit-required adventure genuinely memorable, but the remote access, absence of facilities, and unpredictable tidal water make this unsuitable for young children or non-swimmers.
Our take
Pope Bay is not a beach you stumble upon — you earn it. The NPS permit, the paddle or hike in, the absence of any amenity: all of it filters out casual visitors and leaves behind only people who actually want to be here. The golden sand and wild, untouched atmosphere deliver on that promise. The brown, tidal water is not for swimming, and you should go in clear-eyed about that — this is a place for camping, paddling, walking, and watching, not a resort beach. If solitude and raw barrier-island nature are what you're after on the Maryland coast, this is as good as it gets. Come prepared, come self-sufficient, and come with a permit in hand.
What to do
The beach rewards slow, purposeful activity: kayaking or canoeing the bay approach is itself a highlight, threading through marsh and open water before the shore comes into view. Once you're there, the 664-metre stretch of golden sand is yours to walk, birdwatch, and photograph without distraction. If you need a change of scene after your backcountry days, the Selfie Point and other activity spots around the Ocean City area are roughly 14 to 15 kilometres away — a world apart in atmosphere.
The long, unbroken sweep of golden sand with zero infrastructure makes for a strikingly raw coastal frame — shoot wide at golden hour with the brown water catching the last light.
The kayak or canoe approach through the bay marshes is equally photogenic, offering reflections and birdlife that feel far removed from the developed coastline nearby.
Where to eat
There is no food or water available at Pope Bay — pack in everything you need. When you return to civilisation, Berlin's Main Street Deli (about 13.8 km away) is the closest option for a straightforward meal, and Drummers Cafe at the Atlantic Hotel and Rayne's Reef are both around 13.9 km away if you want something more substantial after days in the backcountry.
Where to stay
The closest place to rest your head with a roof is Bayside Drive-in Campground, essentially on the doorstep of the access area. Island Resort Campground is another option about 8.6 km away — useful if you want a base before or after your backcountry permit days.
Photography
Shoot at first light when the golden sand catches low-angle sun and the brown water reflects the sky in muted, moody tones — no other visitors in frame, just open shore. The bay-side approach by kayak also offers strong compositional shots: marsh grass, open water, and the barrier island silhouette all in one sweep.
Good to know
Book your NPS permit well in advance — this is not a walk-up destination, and summer slots fill fast. The brown, tidal water at Pope Bay is not a swimming beach; currents in backcountry bay zones can be unpredictable, so do not enter the water without understanding local tidal conditions. Bring everything you need — food, fresh water, first aid — because the nearest town, Berlin, is nearly 14 kilometres away and there is nothing on-site. June through September offers the most reliable weather, but mosquitoes and biting flies can be intense in the warmer months, so pack insect protection.
Map
Nearby places
Main Street Deli
Drummers Cafe at the Atlantic Hotel
Rayne's Reef
Counter-Clox
Inlet Bar & Grill
Bayside Drive-in Campground
Island Resort Campground
Frequently asked
The information on this page is provided for guidance only and may evolve. Access conditions, safety and infrastructure can change without notice. Always check official sources before traveling.
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More beaches in US Mid-Atlantic Coast
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Photo credits
Sources and licenses for the photos shown above.
- Photo 1 — PatrickRohe · source · CC BY-ND 2.0
- Photo 2 — Mrs · source · CC BY-SA 2.0
- Photo 3 — Mrs · source · CC BY-SA 2.0